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Modern Sports Car Gifts


AirCon Fault Diagnosis and Common Faults

If you use this as fault finding guide it isn't a bad starting point if the two vehicles are the same type If you are getting some cooling

1. Check the cabin filter - if its really dirty then replace it. That will give a better airflow

2. Look for any leaves or similar debris on the vents

3. Check that all of the trunking is still in place. Ensure all of the under dash panels are still in place protecting the air-con piping. Test using the recirculation button to make sure you have an even distribution of air

4. How long since the AC was last recharged?

If its greater than 2 years then try this next. If you are getting no cooling..

1. Does the interior fan work? If not the AC wont work either, check the fuses and that power is getting to the switch and motor

2. Is the AC compressor actually running at all? Look under the bonnet at where the drive belt is running and get a friend to switch the AC on and off a few times, not too quickly as some systems do not start for several seconds after the switch has been pushed. You should hear a click as the clutch operates and you should then be able to identify which is the compressor. Check the fuses to make sure all are ok.

On some compressors you will find a fuse on the head of the unit. If this is blown then firstly do a recharge of the AirCon refrigerant as that is most likely cause of the fuse going. If the AC compressor is running then it most likely that there is a not enough of the refrigerant left in the system for it operate effectively

Remember that if you manage the repair yourself then you may have to pay for more than one recharge of the aircon system whereas if you let a garage diagnose and perform the repair it will probably be less than you think

Skoda Model Picture Petrol Diesel
Skoda Fabia Mk2

2007 onwards

Skoda Fabia Service Kit
Skoda Fabia from AutoTechnics Oxford 
Petrol
1.2 12V
1.4 16V
1.6 16V
Diesel
1.4 TDI
1.9 TDI
Skoda Octavia Mk1

1996 to 2004

Skoda Octavia Service Kit
Skoda Octavia from AutoTechnics Oxford 
Petrol
1.4
1.4 TFSI
1.6
1.8T
1.8T 20V
1.8T RS
2.0
Diesel
1.6 TDI
1.9 SDI
1.9 TDI
Skoda Octavia Mk2

2004 onwards

Skoda Octavia Service Kit
Skoda Octavia from AutoTechnics Oxford 
Petrol
1.4
1.6
1.6 FSI
1.8 TFSI
2.0 RS
2.0 TFSI
Diesel
1.9 TDI
2.0 TDI
2.0 TDI RS
2.O TDI
Skoda Roomster Mk1

2006 onwards

Skoda Roomster Service Kit
Skoda Roomster from AutoTechnics Oxford 
Petrol
1.2 12V
1.4 16V
1.6 16V
Diesel
1.4 TDI
1.9 TDI
Skoda Superb Mk1

2001 to 2008

Skoda Superb Service Kit
Skoda Superb from AutoTechnics Oxford 
Petrol
1.8 20V Turbo
2.0
2.8 V6
Diesel
1.9 TDI
2.0 TDI
2.5 V6 TDI
Skoda Superb Mk2

2008 onwards

Skoda Superb Service Kit
Skoda Superb from AutoTechnics Oxford 
Petrol
1.4 TSI
1.8 TSI
3.6 FSI V6
Diesel
1.9 TDI


Tyre Repairs and Tyre Sealants

Punctures in the tread area of the car tyre can often be repaired if the tyre's not been driven in a flat condition for any significant distance.

Strict rules for car tyre repair

a) what can be repaired and

b) how repairs should be carried out are laid down in a British Standard (BS AU159).

One of the most important requirements of this standard is that the car tyre must be removed from the wheel to check for any internal damage which if not spotted could later result in sudden failure of the tyre.

Externally applied plugs and liquid sealants can't be considered permanent repairs.

Tyre sealants

Some car makers supply a tyre sealant and inflator pack instead of a spare wheel. The sealant and compressed gas are injected through the tyre valve though the result will depend on the cause of the puncture and how far the tyre has run in a deflated condition.

There are two basic types of sealant.

Pre-puncture sealants
These are put into the tyre as a preventative measure either at the time the tyres are fitted or by injection through the tyre valve. The aim is to prevent air loss if a puncture does occur so the driver can continue the journey without interruption. The seal is pretty much instantaneous after the tyre has been punctured and the concern is that the driver will have no idea whether there's been a puncture or not. A large screw or nail in the tread of the tyre will cause further damage over time and could lead to more catastrophic failure.

Post-puncture sealants
These are used following a puncture. The sealant and compressed gas to re-inflate the tyre are applied through the valve. Carrying a can of tyre sealant can bring peace of mind if you regularly drive alone, but it is vitally important that you spot the puncture early and stop quickly - running in a partially or fully deflated condition will cause weakening of the tyre structure and irreparable damage.

Permanent or temporary?

The British Standard applicable to tyre repairs, BS AU 159, states that tyres should be removed from their rims to be thoroughly inspected to ascertain their suitability for repair. The standard also defines appropriate repair materials.

'The use of liquid tyre sealants does not meet these criteria and hence cannot be considered suitable as a permanent repair.'

Advice from tyre experts to users of pre-puncture sealants is to inspect the tyres VERY often, ie every time you use the vehicle. If the pre-puncture sealant has been activated there should be signs of the sealant (usually white latex based) on the outside of the tyre. If there are any signs of this or of a penetrating object, then the tyre must be removed from the rim and properly inspected to see if it is suitable for permanent repair.